Author Topic: WinSPWW2 tutorial  (Read 16189 times)

Offline Born2Kill 007

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Re: WinSPWW2 tutorial
« Reply #60 on: 26-04-2014, 17:04:38 »
yeah, that's them. I was considering buying an abteilung of them to knack some heavier tanks that may cause difficulties. But while invading france, those french tanks survived heavy barrages from 10cm's and my 21cm Morser. Best i got was immobilizing them...
Since then, i'm a bit cautious. 60cm should be overkill on just about anything, i guess, but when they wouldn't be able of killing just about anything, then they seem a bit expensive to me to only have 20 shots. If someone could verify the power of these shells in-game, it would ertainly be welcome, if no-one answers, i'm probably gonna buy them next time I play.
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Offline CHRISTIEFRONTDRIVE

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Re: WinSPWW2 tutorial
« Reply #61 on: 26-04-2014, 18:04:59 »
I'm not yet capable of buying Nebelwerfers (april 1941), but do they have the same problem?
And on another note, it seems to me that support points don't save up but depend on the map. But do the points you use to expand your core save up? Because I have already been saving a bit now to change my Panzertabteilungen to Tigers in 1942, but noticing support doesn't save up made me a bit worried that i was wasting points i could use to expand my force.
And to conclude: in the Schwere Artillerie, I saw a 60cm cannon that fires HE shells, but are these HE shells also capable of blowing up heavier tanks? (matilda etc.)

If you look in the Encyclopedia you can find the dates that weapons are available to and from. Observe:



Nebelwerfer 41 as you can see becomes available to buy in June 1941, as does the 28cm and 32cm Wurfgerat. Nebelwerfer 42, Foot Stuka, Vielfachwerfer, etc. all become available at later date. Note that there is a button to read the Encyclopedia in the middle of a battle, so you can check it any time.

Support points don't save up, but if you have more than a certain number (1000 for me in my current campaign) repair points left, they are added to the support points. So if you don't have to fix a lot of your tanks or infantry (or for whatever reason choose not to), points will be added to the support phase. Note as well that different types of battles will give you different points. You might get 750 support points for a regular meeting engagement, and then 1650 points for a Defense, and next battle 2000 for an Assault, and then 3500 for a River Crossing.

For artillery, it's easy to figure out what will damage what: the numbers under KILL say the maximum number of enemy troops that will be killed by one shell. For a light mortar, this number might be 6:0 (i.e. best case scenario, one mortar shell will cause six casualties). For a heavy off-map gun (like U.S. 8 inch gun) the number will be much higher. For the Karl-Morser it's 106:0, meaning that a direct hit into the middle of a swarm of infantry could theoretically (and if you are very lucky) kill 106 enemy troops. Hardly ever will the actual results get close to that, but I've killed 20 and 30 troops in well-timed Nebelwerfer barrages. I've used Karl mortars a few times on Eastern Front and they are mega, but a little innacurate. It's hard to hit and easy to get frustrated, but if you have artillery spotters in your core that have gained experience in previous battles they are devastating. They can just wipe a city block off the map.

As for the armor penetration of artillery, look at the number under PEN. The left number is penetration with HE shells, the right penetration with AP shells. If the gun/vehicle has HEAT or APCR shells the number will appear under the respective label. As we can see the Karl-Morser has a HE penetration (left number) of 13, which means it will go through the armor of any tank less than 13. Off-map artillery only has to worry about the top armor, and I don't many tanks that have 130mm of armor on the roof.



So I would say check out the HE penetration and AP penetration of artillery. Off-map won't have AP shells but usually field guns like Russian 76.2mm, SiG howitzers, 25pdrs etc. will have some AP or APCR for emergencies. Even then, you can still use HE shells to defend against armor, just remember it's the left number that shows how much armor a HE shell can go through, and that like in real life this is extremely unreliable. For example, the 25pdr can go through an armor value of 2 with HE shells, and I've had a 25pdr HE fire knock out two Panzer III Bs in quick succession once, and then have their shells bounces off a Panzer II C ten times before finally killing it. But HE fire can cause a lot of damage, blow off tracks, etc.
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Offline Born2Kill 007

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Re: WinSPWW2 tutorial
« Reply #62 on: 26-04-2014, 19:04:41 »
thanks for the information, gonna buy them next time I play (i have way too many repairpoints since i play on easy for my first campaign).

One last thing, I think I once saw something like "couter battery fire" by an off-map artillery unit. What is this and how does this happen? Does this mean off-map artillery isn't invulnerable? (or did i misread, i just thought i read this, but the animation speed is on highest possible which makes bombardments pass in very few seconds, so mistakes in reading are easy)
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Offline CHRISTIEFRONTDRIVE

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Re: WinSPWW2 tutorial
« Reply #63 on: 26-04-2014, 21:04:03 »
thanks for the information, gonna buy them next time I play (i have way too many repairpoints since i play on easy for my first campaign).

One last thing, I think I once saw something like "couter battery fire" by an off-map artillery unit. What is this and how does this happen? Does this mean off-map artillery isn't invulnerable? (or did i misread, i just thought i read this, but the animation speed is on highest possible which makes bombardments pass in very few seconds, so mistakes in reading are easy)

Counter-battery fire can occur when both armies have off-map artillery, so no they aren't untouchable. You can't try to do it, it's just random (although if you bought off-map arty in your core and it gets experience, counter-battery fire becomes more often and accurate). So for example if I am playing as Germany and I buy an off-map 10cm artillery battery, sometimes after it fires it will take hits from a Russian 76mm off-map battery (or 152mm or 203mm or whatever they have). It's totally computer controlled though, but it always feels nice when the enemy showers a field 4 miles away from your main force, and then it says "Germany 150mm SiG using counter-battery fire, Russian 76mm FG takes 10 hits". So you can lose your off-map artillery by this method, but only once you have actually fired it.

By the way, a tip for on-map artillery like mortars is don't forget to relocate after firing. I always get lazy and then my Nebel batteries get masscared because I gave away their position by firing and then didn't relocate. But by the same token, about halfway through the battle you should scan the enemy's half of the map because often times some of their arty or AA guns will be visible. This is to reflect the real world method of using sound to pinpoint the location of enemy guns.
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Offline Born2Kill 007

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Re: WinSPWW2 tutorial
« Reply #64 on: 26-04-2014, 21:04:51 »
I did already find other artillery and then killed them (I have overwhelming artillery by now), but they indeed hit my howitzers as well. So how do you do it? You fire twice, relocate, fire twice relocate and so on? What vehicles you use? (i have the 7.5's). And are they worth putting so much efford in it? Even against infantry I don't consider them really effective. In my opinion they are just useful for breaking morale, and firing on infantry that's so close to your lighter tanks that you don't dare putting your 10cm Schw. Art. Abt. on it.

About the counterfire: does your artillery have to be idle to counterfire, or do they also counterfire while they are on a firemission?
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Offline CHRISTIEFRONTDRIVE

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Re: WinSPWW2 tutorial
« Reply #65 on: 26-04-2014, 21:04:49 »
I think they have to be idle to counterfire but I'm not 100% sure.

What I do is wait for as long as possible before firing on-map arty because that lowers the number of times you have to relocate. What I usually do is buy a platoon of heavy trucks before the battle with support points, and park them in the same hex as the mortar. That way once they are done firing, you can load them and move them in the next turn. You can put lots of stuff in heavy trucks so that's what I use, although light trucks are faster.

Arty does seem a bit ineffective sometimes, so I usually dial up the effectiveness in Settings to 200%. I find that's a sweet spot between too effective and not effective enough. At 100% by default, it's kind of lame to blast enemy positions with 150mm field guns and get like one casualty.
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Offline Born2Kill 007

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Re: WinSPWW2 tutorial
« Reply #66 on: 27-04-2014, 00:04:37 »
Yup, same reason i play 200%. Tanks i've set to 150% because i had the impression they were really really weak on 100%. But for my next campaign, I think i'm gonna say goodbye to my field artillery. Now i just use it since it's there anyway, but it's too much work and too weak. Another things i have been wondering is what the use of the flak is. I bought from the very first game a few flak batteries and they didn't fire a single shot so far. The AI doesn't use planes on easy or what? Or do they come later?
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Offline CHRISTIEFRONTDRIVE

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Re: WinSPWW2 tutorial
« Reply #67 on: 27-04-2014, 00:04:56 »
Yup, same reason i play 200%. Tanks i've set to 150% because i had the impression they were really really weak on 100%. But for my next campaign, I think i'm gonna say goodbye to my field artillery. Now i just use it since it's there anyway, but it's too much work and too weak. Another things i have been wondering is what the use of the flak is. I bought from the very first game a few flak batteries and they didn't fire a single shot so far. The AI doesn't use planes on easy or what? Or do they come later?

The AI definitely uses planes on all difficulty levels but the chances of seeing them reflect the real-world situation. So for example, the German AI will use lots of Stukas, BF109s, etc. in Poland, France, etc. because in real life, they had domination of the sky. But if you are fighting in France in 1944, you will see tons of Allied planes but not a lot of German ones.

I usually only purchase flak batteries in Support points, and even then I know there are some people who play winSPWW2 and don't bother with it at all. The AI tends to buy lots of AA guns though, I had a battle a few days ago where I bought 5 x Fieseler Storch and set them all to go on spotting runs on turn 12, and 4 of them got shot down.
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Offline Kelmola

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Re: WinSPWW2 tutorial
« Reply #68 on: 27-04-2014, 10:04:06 »
At least when I last played, off-board counterbattery fire requires that your guns have been idle the previous turn (though they can fire normally after firing counterbattery fire). The likelihood (and lethality) of counterbattery fire is directly tied to the experience of the firing artillery.

Unseen enemy arty and AAA can also be located by the smoke they create even if the gun itself does not become visible (so you can direct artillery/call in spotting plane or airstrikes when you see the smoke).

Vehicles can also raise dust clouds when moving if the weather is dry enough (eg. African desert, Russian steppes in the summer) - the faster they move, the more dust they will create and the more likely it is (so those scout cars trying to outflank you will be revealed because of their speed). Don't know whether the AI "sees" the dust though. Again, LOS is not required for seeing the dust (the idea is probably that it will float higher than intervening terrain).

Offline CHRISTIEFRONTDRIVE

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Re: WinSPWW2 tutorial
« Reply #69 on: 30-04-2014, 17:04:49 »
Yeah, dust clouds can help a lot. You can see them very early on and they're a big help. Also note that when the AI is doing it's turn, if you see a building go down and "structure collapses" is seen, that means an enemy vehicle has driven through that building and may be stuck (but also may not be).

I remember fighting a battle where this happened and it was a Polish 7TP that got stuck in a house, but I forgot about it, and it blasted 3 out of 4 Panzer IVs I drove past it. Then I targeted the tank for 10cm artillery and blasted it to smithereens :D.
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Offline Captain Pyjama Shark

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Re: WinSPWW2 tutorial
« Reply #70 on: 01-03-2015, 21:03:11 »
Please forgive the horrendous necro but I am a very powerful nymphomancer and therefore assure you that all is well.

So I started playing WinSPWW2... and since we already had this thread I figured I may as well post in it...

Ok so this game is very fun but my main problem is that enemy turns take forever.  And it's very grating to have to listen to the constant machine gun ratatat noises.  Is there some way to speed up their turns?  Or get a quick resume of what actually happened without having to watch the whole thing?

I've been playing a Spanish Civil War scenario (viva la revolucion!) and it's mostly infantry, which might explain why it takes so long.  Each turn consists of about 15 infantry units shooting at each other without ever hitting anything.

Offline Kelmola

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Re: WinSPWW2 tutorial
« Reply #71 on: 01-03-2015, 21:03:10 »
IIRC there is an option "Hidden enemy turn" or something like that which is exactly what you are looking for.

Offline Captain Pyjama Shark

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Re: WinSPWW2 tutorial
« Reply #72 on: 01-03-2015, 21:03:11 »
Oh thank god.  It's driving me nuts.

Follow up question - what does radio contact do?  And what's the downside when a unit is "out of contact"?

Offline Ts4EVER

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Re: WinSPWW2 tutorial
« Reply #73 on: 01-03-2015, 22:03:28 »
Ah I love this game. There are actually official scenarios made by me on the official release, btw. Some of which might end up as FH2 maps ;).

About contact:
The game simulates military hierarchy. The highest instance is your commander, the A0 unit. Below that you got company commanders (B0 for your first company) and below that platoons which consist of a platoon command unit (C0, D0, E0) and the two to three vehicles or squads under its control (C1, C2, C3 / D1, D2, D3 etc). Each should always be in contact with it commanding unit, either directly, or through radio. That being said, in WW2 most nations infantry squads do not have radios, so you should keep them within a 5 hex radius of each other and move them as a platoon. For infantry the platoon is usually your smallest unit of maneuvre.
The commanding units come into play when it comes to morale. Units out of contact are pinned easier and in some cases even get pinned without reason, meaning they just stop because they don't get orders anymore. Also, whenever you try to rally a unit to get them to unpin, first the squadleader tries to rally them, if that fails the platoon commander, then the Company Commander and then the A0 unit as last instance. If this line is broken through lack of contact, you will have less of a chance to get your men moving again. Because if your squad leader fails to rally them and there is no contact to the platoon leader, they stay pinned for that turn (or retreating or routed). This can easily spitball out of control!
Most newb players make the mistake of randomly scattering their units around on the map, kilometres away from each other. Don't do that! Deploy your units together according to the organization. Gimme a minute and I will show you.

Ok



This is a typicaly formation I use for a 1944 type German infantry company on an attack. Keep them close together and lead with one platoon. Once they encounter the enemy have them fire at them to suppress and maneuvre with your other two platoons to get close and fuck them.
« Last Edit: 01-03-2015, 22:03:06 by Ts4EVER »

Offline Captain Pyjama Shark

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Re: WinSPWW2 tutorial
« Reply #74 on: 02-03-2015, 20:03:33 »
Excellent, this is fast becoming addictive.

Can I re-man abandoned crew-served weapons?